Zondag 23 Juni 2013 (dag 29) Parga- Arzuá 57 km.

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Vandaag is het de dag van de waarheid. Een klimpartij 720 m. hoog. We hebben nog 5 km. uitstel tot Seixón. In Miraz nemen we de verkeerde afslag en we komen op een rotsachtige weg door de bossen terecht waar het soms onmogelijk is op de fiets te blijven. Dan maar holder de bolder over de rotsen te voet tot we plots recht voor een steengroeve staan die ons de weg verspert. Er zit niets anders op er rond te ploeteren om te zien of de weg erachter doorloopt. Waar zitten we eigenlijk? Moest het hier beginnen regenen!? Zitten hier vossen of everzwijnen … wie weet een wolf? De weg kronkelt en hobbelt naar 500 m. … 600 m. tot op 680 m. hoogte. Na 2 uur puffen en zweten komen we eindelijk op een asfaltwegje die in een grote bocht bijna terug keert van waar we komen. In Negradas zet een Spanjaard ons terug op de weg. Na 200 m. dalen moeten we eerst over een heuvel tot 700 m. hoog om dan richting Sobrado te nemen naar links “a la isquierda”. Reusachtige windmolens zoeven krachtig over een eindeloze hoogvlakte vol geelgekleurde heide. Hier krijgt de koude wind alle kans. We zwoegen ons naar omhoog. Ons lichaam staat “op rood”. Van daarboven leidt de dp-8001 ons in een lange afdaling naar Sobrado dos Monxes. De koude wind suist rond de oren. Rillingen over gans het lichaam. We bezoeken de beroemde cisterciënzer abdij. Een indrukwekkend gebouwencomplex met een reusachtige kerk. Langs de muren loopt groen bruin schimmelend vocht. Hoe kan het dat men zulk prachtig historisch erfgoed laat vervallen. De 2 torens en de voorgevel staan vol onkruid. Er groeit zelfs een boom op. Hier beneden in Sobrado is het warm tot 35° C. De krachtige zonnestralen doen ons deugd na die bar koude hoogtes. In Arzuá sluiten we aan op de veel drukkere Camino Francés vanuit Astorga. Het is wennen. Er heerst een gezellige drukte op het dorpsplein waar vele vermagerde en hinkende pelgrims zitten te bekomen achter een pint of een berg pasta. Wij doen ons te goed aan een liter bier en …een toren spagetti. Wij hebben dit verdiend, toch?




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