Donderdag 27 Juni 2013. Terug naar huis.

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De Renfe dagtrein arriveert na een rit van bijna 14 uur in Hendaya rond 21 uur. De volgende dag brengt de TGV ons tot Bordeaux en de regionale TER naar Libourne. Annemie komt ons benieuwd aan het station afhalen. Het kan niet anders dan dat tot laat in de avond achter een glas wijn de verhalen naar boven komen. Op zaterdag morgen rijden we met een rugzak vol herinneringen na 5 weken huiswaarts.

Met een gemiddelde afstand van 50 km. per dag kunnen we ons moeilijk catalogeren onder de “snelle” fietsers. Alhoewel de bergen zelden hoger waren dan 400m., waren de onophoudelijke beklimmingen vanaf zeespiegel lastig en zwaar. Klimpartijen aan 8 à 10% zijn de regel. Geen enkele dag was het plat.
We hebben er nooit een geheim van gemaakt dat we buiten het fietsen ook nog geïnteresseerd zijn in cultuur en natuur. Geen “dwaze” kilometervreterij. En er was véél natuur. Enkel de vervuilende industrie rond de kuststeden San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander, Gijón en Avilés kon al dit moois bederven. De noordkust van Spanje is één lang gerekte panoramafoto van woeste kliffen, uitnodigende playas, schuimende oceaangolven, groene woeste bergen, dichte spookachtige mistslierten. Ongerepte natuur van ongekende schoonheid.
Omdat we opteerden voor een rustige tocht en een bescheiden vakantiegevoel bezochten we geen overbevolkte refugios maar comfortabele goedkope hotelletjes. De dagelijkse “menu del día” was een must. Hierdoor misten we misschien een beetje het beruchte “camino-gevoel”. We hebben weinig pelgrims ontmoet. Weinig fietsers, meestal oudere stappers onder zware rugzakken, waarvan we vermoeden dat ze bewúst alleen op weg waren in alle stilte. Pas vanaf Arzuá op nog geen 50 km. van Compostela verwijderd, kwamen we terecht op de drukke “Camino Francés” waar we moesten wennen aan de soms luidruchtige pelgrims.
De “Camino del Norte” is een echte aanrader voor wie de gekte van de “Camino Francés” wil vermijden; voor wie op tocht wil gaan in confrontatie met de stilte van de natuur. Een tocht om nooit meer te vergeten.


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